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Hike Herzegovina-Mountain Vran

mountain vran in bosnia and herzegovina

Path: Motel Hajdučke vrleti – Veliki Vran (2074 m.a.s.l.)

Mountain: Vran

Difficulty: Medium

Mine Risk: None along the marked route

Duration: 2,5 h

GPS start coordinates: N43° 39.195’ ; E17° 32.027’

Altitude difference: 870 m

GPS peak coordinates: N43°40.089’ ; E17°30.336’

Water Supply: spring „Hajducko vrilo“ 1,5 h from the motel Orientation

Difficulty: None

Total length: 4 km

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Ascent to Vran is particularly suitable for recreational hikers, whereas south and southeast allow passage through the richness of the karst landscape.

Going from Jablanica through the picturesque canyon of river Doljanka, road seemingly leading to nowhere, upon the arrival to the saddle of Sovićka vrata suddenly transforms into a spectacular vedute of mountainous landscape. Plateau Dugo polje is bounded by the mountains Čvrsnica on the southeast and Vran on the northwest and it offers idyllic atmosphere of mountain resort, both in summer and winter. Since 1995, the plateau and surrounding mountains were incorporated into a Nature Park Blidinje. Shallow lake Blidinje is placed on the southwestern side of the plateau, opposite to the Sovićka vrata saddle, with the peaks of surrounding mountains mirroring themselves on the surface. One of those peaks is Veliki Vran (2074 m.a.s.l.), the highest peak of Vran which forms western boundary of Dugo polje. Vran is not a typical Dinaric mountain. One of the facts to suggest this is the direction of the mountain which spreads from southwest – northeast. Ascent to Vran is particularly suitable for recreational hikers, whereas south and southeast allow passage through the richness of the karst landscape.

The starting point is placed in Trnovac, two kilometers after the crossroad in Blidinje in direction of Rama. The beauty of the landscape increases with the ascent. After the first steep part, one can find a valley with water reservoir constructed during the times of AustroHungarian Monarchy. The name confirms it: „Carska lokva“ or „The Emperor’s Pond“. Well marked path continues through the belts of mountain pines, beech forest and grass. In the summer, mountaineers are recommended to rest in the thick shade of pines. Before the arrival to Veliki Vran, the path passes through the thick pine forest somewhere mottled with barren land. The peak of Veliki Vran is marked with the pile of rocks, and as the reward for the successful ascent, the mountaineers have the fantastic view of three surrounding lakes: Ramsko, Buško and Blidinjsko.

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Blidinje lake

5 photos of Bosnia and Herzegovina that will have you planning your next vacation

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Bosnia and Herzegovina is much more than you can imagine. There’s really something for every kind of wanderlust to enjoy—even if spending a lazy day under the sun isn’t your cup of coffee. Old town in Mostar, landscapes, medieval city of Pocitelj, Kravice waterfalls—the list of travel-worthy experiences goes on. Ahead, 5 photos of Bosnian and Herzegovina’s most beautiful sites to kick off your trip planning.

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The highest peak in Bosnia and Herzegovina
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Rama Lake
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Old Bridge Mostar
Small village Blagaj on Buna spring and waterfall in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Small village Blagaj on Buna spring and waterfall in Bosnia and Herzegovina
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Perucica rainforest in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Eating out in Bosnia: The best meals of my life by Emm in London

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This story originally appeared on emminlondon.com

The Tour Guide Mostar project is in full swing. Every day we are gathering more and more information and getting in touch with bloggers from all around the world who visited Mostar and Herzegovina as a stop on their journeys.

This week we would like to introduce you to Mandy Southgate, an expat with dual South African and British nationality. She likes traipsing around the English countryside and she loves Bosnia (with a passion). She also loves Serbia and the Balkans! Read her story: “EATING OUT IN BOSNIA: THE BEST MEALS OF MY LIFE”!

I know, it’s not Tuesday but when life gave me lemons this week, I had to turn them into Lemsip to treat a change-of-season cold that suddenly appeared. Speaking of food, this week I am joining Emma, Rebecca and Kelly on their monthly travel link up. We’re talking about the best meals we had while traveling and I couldn’t think of a better reason to return to Bosnia! In a way, I’m pleased because I’m not a foodie blogger (I far prefer to eat food then write about it) but I had always wanted to share these culinary experiences.

Restaurant Šadrvan review

Location: Jusovina Street, Old town Mostar

I remember the Saturday afternoon we arrived in Mostar as if it were yesterday. I had seen so many photos of the old town but somehow remained unprepared for its beauty. The hostess of the Villa Anri encouraged us to enjoy drinks on the roof of the hotel but as we gazed down into the old town, we simply couldn’t wait to go and explore. We asked our hostess to recommend a restaurant with authentic Bosnian-Herzegovinian food and she wasted no time in recommending the Restaurant Šadrvan.

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Photo by eminnlondon.com

I will always remember that afternoon in Mostar. We sat under the shade of the trees in the Šadrvan restaurant, watching as people milled around the market stalls or began the steep incline towards the old bridge. It was a hot, lazy May afternoon with the temperatures already in the 30s yet there was an undercurrent of anticipation as if we need only wait for the cool dusk to come and the evening festivities to begin.

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Photo by emminlondon.com

Located where Jusovina Street meets the main path through the old town, Šadrvan (meaning ‘fountain’) surrounds an old Ottoman-style fountain.

As I opened the menu and paged through the options, I had to laugh at the name of the dish that we were to order. Part of what attracted me to the Bosnian language in the first place was that so often, words are similar enough that you can derive their meaning; it’s just that words sound so much more lyrical in Bosnian. I ordered the ‘Nacionalna Plate’ for two and thrilled at the way in which the words rolled off my tongue.

The food of the Balkan region is well known for its variety of stuffed vegetables and this meal was no different. At €18, it was incredibly well-priced and included japrak and dolma – peppers, onions, and vine leaves stuffed with rice and meat. The meal came with loads of ćevapi which are minced lamb sausages, small savory corn bread cakes known as ‘Bosnian cookies’ and đuveč, a savory vegetable dish. The dish was completed with flat bread, boiled potatoes, rice and sour cream.

I’ve often tried to describe the effect that this dish had on us but seem to fail each time. I can say that it was so good that it puts every other dish I have had since to shame. That my mouth is watering as I write and that I’d climb on a plane right now if I could to sample that piece of Bosnian heaven again. It was simply delicious and when we were looking for somewhere to eat the following afternoon, we could not help but return to the Šadrvan again to eat the exact same dish.

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Photo by emminlondon.com

Restaurant Inat Kuća review 

Location: Veliki Alifakovac 1, Sarajevo

After such an auspicious introduction to local cuisine, Stephen and I were initially disappointed with the food in Sarajevo. We had prepared ahead, consulted Trip Advisor and gone to the most popular restaurant in town and while the food was good and the service fantastic, it simply didn’t measure up to our experience in Mostar.

Thankfully, we met up with Kenan, a local tour guide and he recommended the Restaurant Inat Kuća for an authentic Bosnian experience.

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Photo by emminlondon.com

I chose the dish Sarajevski Sahan and it did not disappoint. It was a mix of Bosnian specialties and again featured stuffed peppers, onions and vine leaves, as well as ćevapi and bamija which is a Bosnian veal stew. We noticed the slight change in the food from Mostar, which is in the Herzegovinian region, with the introduction of veal and stews. Yes, all of that meat was for one person and cost an incredible 20KM or €10! My dish cost 14KM or €7.

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Photo by emminlondon.com

The story of the Inat Kuća or ‘house of despite’ is an incredible one. The house was once located on the other side of the river Miljacka but in 1895 city officials wanted to demolish it to make way for the new city hall. The old man who owned the house was very stubborn and insisted that they dismantle his house and rebuild it, brick by brick, on the other side of the river. And so it is now, slightly lost in translation, the house of spite or despite.

It is a little difficult to describe exactly why we loved this restaurant so much and what it meant to us. We had spent the morning touring Sarajevo with Kenan, learning about the siege, driving down Sniper Alley and visiting the Tunnel Museum. It was a lot to absorb and I can recall us being lost in our thoughts for a while as we relaxed and enjoyed the superb food. I would say that it was a moment in time, a sensory experience which is burned in my heart and my memory and I can so easily recall the quiet and calm of that afternoon, the importance to us and, of course, the tastes.

5 things not to miss in Mostar by Ana Filipović

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This story originally appeared on: propercroatia.com

Passionate and persuasive, Ana Filipović loves sharing her cross-cultural insights and personal flare. Born in Croatia, grew up in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Ana is currently adventuring away from her European homeland to study at Hood College, Maryland, U.S. More specifically, as she crosses the world on a ship with a study abroad program for spring 2015, Semester at Sea, her missives reflecting on her home country come from her deep knowledge and passion to develop the area.

Mostar is an unbelievable city with a long history and a very rich present. You can spend days in the city, but even a day stop will enrich your travels! Here are some things you shouldn’t miss seeing:

  1. The Bridge. Of course. When you first see the Old Bridge forget about your camera or your new Facebook profile picture. Take a seat on the coast of river Neretva and look up. The Old Bridge is not just a bridge made for crossing from East to the West coast and vice-versa. For the post-war generations, it presents peace and unity. It signifies reconciliation. Cheer to this with a local beer. Admire the scenery and the people. And yes, now you may take your cameras out.
  2. While at the Old Bridge, grab a bite of pita, local hearty snack made out of dough with different fillings (potatoes, cheese, spinach, minced meat, and many more). If you are a huge meat eater, you should go for ćevapi in lepinja bread with garlic and sour cream. You’re welcome.
  3. That “Big Tall Orange Building” at the Spanish Square – is actually from the Austro-Hungarian period and has endured a lot of suffering from bullets and grenades throughout the Civil War in 90s. Today, it hosts two public and one private high school for three programs. One is Bosnian, one Croatian, and the third one is United World College (UWC) – an international IB school, with more than 33 nationalities from all around the world attending it. The square was the front fighting line between Bosniaks and Croats during the war. UWC serves as an example of unity across Bosnia-Herzegovina.
  4. From the Spanish Square, stop by a local café Coco Loco for an enjoyable café latte. Take a break and have a snack from one of the local bakeries. The U.S. has Panera, but we have small mom & pop’s shops that will make your lips tremble from richness of the food offerings.
  5. The Glass Bank is right across Coco Loco. It’s an abandoned building still wounded from the war. BUT, you can go in and walk up the stairs to see an amazing panorama of Mostar. Take plenty of pictures and enjoy. Because traveling is all about taking it all in. Dobrodošli!

Bloggers in Mostar: Ginan Rauf

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As we go more and more into research about traveling and tourism, we realize that thousands of people share the passion for traveling and exploring the unknown.From day one the Tour Guide Mostar journey has been an incredible experience for our team. By collecting information about our hometown, history, architecture and contacting people who have visited us, we got the chance to communicate with real-life explorers.

This weekend we would like to introduce you to Gina Rauf. She was raised by her Egyptian father and mother from Bosnia and Herzegovina.   Her blog is about capturing moments from all around the world.

Read her thoughts about the time she spent in Mostar:

”Never forget things of beauty”, I tell myself as I pick up my camera and prepare to capture images of beautiful things.

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Photo by  Rauf Ginan

But that is no longer enough. I often find myself thinking about how fragile beautiful things can be. This is a photo taken in Mostar, a city in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina that is situated on the Neretva River.

It is a city of breathtaking beauty. Below is a view of the Old Bridge overlooking the Neretva River. 

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Photo by Rauf Ginan

In 1468 Mostar came under the rule of the Ottomans. The city developed and flourished as an urban settlement during four centuries of Ottoman rule. Mostar is famous for its Old Bridge and Turkish house. The Old Bridge was designed by Mimar Hayruddin, an Ottoman architect, in 1556. During the 19th and 20th centuries,  Mostar was occupied by the Austro-Hungarians.
The bridge was destroyed by Croat Bosnian forces in 1993 and rebuilt in 2014. For many people, myself included, the Old Bridge is a world heritage site that belongs to all of the humanity. Its destruction is a stark reminder that the erasure of history is always a threat posed by war and ethnic conflicts. Its reconstruction is a stark reminder that such erasure can always be resisted in myriad ways.
As I walked through the Old City in Mostar my heart broke. The market was awash with poorly made trinkets intended for tourists. I understand that people need to make a living and that tourists are an important source of income in a country devastated by war and unemployment. Yet, there was an inescapable sense that all these poorly made products pouring into Mostar were causing harm to a proud people with proud traditions of making objects of beauty. The neoliberal order threatened fragile things of beauty as well.
It didn’t take me long to find a small shop that stood out. It was a shop owned by a coppersmith named Ismet Kurt who was could be seen making sketches in a small space that functioned for all intents and purposes as an artist’s studio.
My husband and I started looking around. We were stunned by the power and beauty of the hand chiseled pieces:

The length of time it takes to produce a handmade piece confers a certain uniqueness. They are linked to a specific place and require specialized skills that are often passed on from father to son: as such they are emblematic of a coppersmith’s individuality and particular history. Being a producer of value in the aftermath of a war that targeted the cultural heritage of Bosnians and devastated their economic prospects is not a trivial matter.

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Photo by Rauf Ginan

Ismet Kurt told us that these pieces were made by a local artist (cover photo), a young woman currently studying art at University who used the stone found in Mostar. The  Ismet Kurt told us that these pieces were made by a local artist, a young woman currently studying art at University who used the stone found in Mostar. The geometric stylized face reminded me of some of his copper engravings. Unfortunately, I don’t remember the name of the artist but I do know that I can ask Ismet Kurt or his son. Their shop has become for me an invaluable source of local knowledge to which one can always return. Still, it bothers me that she is anonymous and that the piece is not signed.stylized face reminded me of some of his copper engravings. Unfortunately, I don’t remember the name of the artist but I do know that I can ask Ismet Kurt or his son. Their shop has become for me an invaluable source of local knowledge to which one can always return. Still, it bothers me that she is anonymous and that the piece is not signed.